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Travelling around Crete

1. Knossos Palace - Archaeological Museum & Heraklion city	2. Gortys - Phaistos - Matala
3. West Crete	4. East Crete
5. Lasithi Plateau	6. Myrtia - Archanes

1. Knossos Palace - Archaeological Museum & Heraklion city

The archaeological site of Knossos is at a distance of 5 Kms. southeast of Heraklion city.
The name Knossos is mentioned by Homer, who speaks of Knossos as a big city. The Knossos palace is famous all over the world through the myths of Europa, the Minotaur, the Labyrinth and Theseus, Daedalus and Ikarus. It is the most ancient civilization of Europe and its reality you can’t miss.
The first palace of Knossos was built around 1900 BC, on the remains of a pre-existing Neolithic settlement, which had been inhabited since 6000 BC. This palace was destroyed around 1700 BC and, in its place, another one was built. During the period between 1700-1450 BC, Minoan Crete, and especially Knossos, was at the height of its brilliance and power. In 1600, a destructive earthquake caused serious damage. Soon however, the necessary repairs were made and, at the same time, other sumptuous buildings were erected on the same site. Around 1450, a new catastrophe occurred – probably due to the eruption of the volcano on Thera (Santorini) – with destructive effects.
Then came the invasion of the Achaeans and, a little later, during a battle, the palace area was no longer used, but Knossos continued to be an important city-state until the first Byzantine period.
During the Venetian period, Knossos sank into oblivion, its glorious name was forgotten. Almost all the ruins of the palace which have survived today, belong to the Neo-palatial period.

The Archaeological Museum is one of the most important and richest of Greek museums and it commands a significant place among the list of the greatest museums in the world. Its 20 rooms house a wealth of exhibits originating exclusively from Crete and related to the island’s past (from Neolithic to Roman times). Unique are the finds from excavation at Knossos, Phaestos, Agia Triada, Malia and other Minoan centers of central Crete.
It is located in the center of Heraklion town.

Heraklion City is built on the site of the small harbour which was the seaport of Knossos. This small harbour much later became an important fortified town under the Arabs, who held it for a period of over one hundred years (824-961 AD). During the period of Venetian rule (1204-1699) it was called Candia, a name which eventually came to cover the entire island. This was a period of prosperity for the town, which was fortified by its occupiers with another strong wall, was adorned with a great number of splendid buildings, fountains, squares, and churches, and a time during which the arts and literature also flourished. Then also 21 years of close siege, the town finally surrended to its new conquerors who, this time, came from the East: the Turks (1669). In 1913, Heraklion was incorporated into the free Greek State, together with the rest of Crete. During the German occupation its inhabitants organized a brave resistance movement together with the other Cretan patriots.
Heraklion is now a modern town (the largest of the island) and is the administrative, commercial, industrial and agricultural center of Crete.
The Old Port is on the left of the modern port and during the Venetian period it was an important commercial and military center.
The Venetian Walls are the most important fortifications of the Venetian period.
The Castle or Koules was built at the entrance of the Venetian port in order to protect it from raids. It is open to the public and on the top an outdoor theatre has been built. The name Koules is a Turkish name. The Venetians called it Rocca al Mare.
The church of St. Titus was initially built by the Byzantines. The Venetians used it as a Catholic Cathedral and the Turks as a mosque. In 1872 it was rebuilt on its old foundations, so that it could again used as a Greek Orthodox church.
The church of St. Mark was built by the Venetians and it is used today as a Literary Institute, as a permanent exhibition hall for copies of Byzantine frescoes and as a concert hall.
The Loggia is the most elegant of the Venetian buildings of the town. Today it houses the Town Hall.
The Cathedral of St. Minas is an impressive and one of the largest church in Greece.
The Morosini Fountain constituted the center of Venetian Candia. The fountain has a central basin, resting on the backs of four lions.

The Bembo Fountain in Kornaros square is the oldest fountain to have survived.
The Municipal Market is a picturesque part of the modern Cretan town. An outdoor market, offering in plenty all kinds of goods, market produce, fruit, nuts, herbs, spices, meats, cheeses and souvenirs.

Other Museums in Heraklion city

The Historical Museum of Crete is also located in the town of Heraklion with exhibits dating from the Byzantine period to the precent. It also includes important historical documents and items of popular art. In addition, paleo-Christian, Byzantine and Venetian finds as well as Turkish documents provide invaluable information about the history of the island. Recently the museum acquired a miniature model of the town of Heraklion as it existed during the Venetian rule. This model is exhibited in a specially arranged hall.
The museum also houses “Mount Sinai” by El Greco.

The Natural Histoty Museum of Crete offers the visitor a unique chance of a rich experience of the natural environment of Crete. In a suitable exhibition area of 800 sq.m., with realistic models of biotopes, animal, and plant collections, as well as plenty of photographic material, the visitor discover the natural beauty of Crete and mainland Greece.

Collection of Byzantine icons – Saint Catherine’s church, also called the Museum of Religious Art. It was built in the 15th century and was turned into a mosque during the Turkish occupation. It includes important frescoes of the 13th and 14th centuries, Christians relics, manuscripts, religious books, wood-carvings and many Byzantine icons.

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2. Gortys - Phaistos - Matala

Gortys or Gortyna, as it is called today was one of the strongest and most ancient towns of Crete. During the Roman and early Byzantine times, it was the capital of the island. It was in constant conflict with Knossos, but cultivated peaceful relations with the Achaeans and the Ptolemies of Agypt. During the period of Roman domination it knew its greatest period of prosperity, since it took the side of the Romans and did not put up a resistance against them.
Gortyna accepted Christianity early and became the see of the first Bishop of Crete, the Apostle Titus. In the early Byzantine period it flourished and retained its prestige until 828 AD, when it was taken and destroyed by the Saracens. From that time on, the town was deserted and was never again inhabited.

Phaistos is second in importance only to Knossos, from the archaeological point of view. It is built on a hill (at an altitude of 100 m., approximately, above sea level), and commands the fertile plain of Kato Messara, which is surrounded by impressive mountains (Psiloritis, Asteroussia, the Lasithi mountains far away in the background). To the south lies the Libyan sea. Phaistos, owing to its importance, is mentioned in the texts of ancients writers (Diodorus, Strabo, Pausanias), but also by Homer. According to mythology, the dynasty which ruled Phaistos was that of Rhadamanthys, son of Zeus and brother of Minos. It was a very strong, rich, populous and independent city. The state of Phaistos also disposed of two strong ports, Matala and Kommos to the southwest. The area had been inhabited since Neolithic times (3000 BC approximately). The first palace was built in approximately 1900 BC and together with the other structures around, covered an area of 18.000 sq.m. (slightly less than that of the palace of Knossos). The great earthquake which occurred around 1700 BC was the cause of its destruction, as it was of that of Knossos. In its place a new, more impressive palace was built, to which belong the greatest part of the ruins which have been restored, while several parts of the first palace have also been excavated, mainly those lying to the southwest.

Matala, only a small fishing village a few years ago, has now developed into a modern holiday center. The hollowed-out rocks with the artificial caves are the characteristic feature of the village. Some of these may possibly have been used as prehistoric dwellings while, during the 1st and 2nd centuries, they were used as tombs. Today the area is an archaeological site and has been fenced off. The beach of Matala opens like an embracing arm into the Libyan sea.

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3. West Crete

Going west we leave behind the range of Mount Ida (Psiloritis mountain) and the village of Fodele. A picturesque little village surrounded by rich orange groves. This is the native village of the great painter Dominicos Theotokopoulos, or “El Greco” (1545-1614). The house where he was born is still standing. A short visit is alwas recommended.

We continue westwards and 48 kms. from Heraklion to the right leads to the lovely coastal settlement of Bali, built on a picturesque little bay.
Not far from the settlement is the monastery of St. John the Baptist, dating from the 16th century.

Eventually our tour will take us to the historic Monastery of Arkadi, the Cretan symbol of freedom, built on a hill with a magnificent view over the verdant area surrounding it. The monastery is built like a fortress. It is surrounded by several buildings and its external walls are 1.2 m. thick. Almost at the center of the precinct stands the monastery church. The church with its two naves was built in 1587 and its architectural style is a mixture of Renaissance, Gothic, Classical and Baroque elements. After the Greek War of Independence of 1821, many Cretan guerilla fighters who were being hunted by the Turks, took refuge in the monastery. On November 7th, 1866, a Turkish force of 15.000 men besieged the monastery, and its leader demanded of Abbot Gabriel to surrender the members of the revolutionary committee who were gathered there. At that time apart from the members of the committee, 300 armed men and 600 or so women and children had also taken refuge in the monastery. When the Abbot refused, the Turks opened fire. Those entrenched in the monastery resisted fiercely for two days, but on November 9th, their resistance weakened and in order not to surrender to the enemy, the fighters set fire to the powder magazines. In the explosion, all those in the monastery were killed and, with them, many Turks who had in the meantime forced their way into the monastery. The “Arkadi holocaust”, as this heroic sacrifice came to be called, is a landmark of immense importance in the history of the struggle of the Cretan people for freedom. There is also an ossuary, where the bones of the dead heroes of the Arkadi holocaust are kept.

Continuing west and leaving the massive mountain range of the White Mountains we arrive at the beautiful town of Chania.
This is the largest and most important town of western Crete, which retained its local color. It is one of the loveliest towns in Greece and the many vestiges of its past give it a particular charm Her Venetian harbor, narrow streets and old buildings from the Venetian and Turkish periods are almost intact and bring directly into the past. One of the most characteristic spots in the town is the impressive Municipal Market, in the center of the town, which was built in 1911.

The Archaeological Museum of Chania contains important finds from the excavations in the Chania region and the whole of western Crete, dating from the Neolithic to the Roman period.
In the Chania Naval Museum are exhibited models of ships from antiquity to modern times and relics from the historic battles of the Greek Navy.

On this tour a short stop at the old town of Rethymnon is always recommended. The Venetian fortress, Loggia and the fountain, the last of the mosques to be found in Crete and the wide variety of architectural styles make Rethymnon unique and place worth to visit.

 

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4. East Crete

This route covers a large part of the northeastern axis of the island. All along its length, one comes across important archaeological sites and many attractive places. Our route arrives at the archaeological site of Malia, 3 kms. east of the modern town of the same name. Malia was an important Minoan town with a palace equivalent in size to those of Knossos and Phaestos, but not so grand. The first palace was built around 1900 BC, was destroyed around 1700 BC, following which a new one was built. However, around 1450 BC, this new palace suffered the same fate. The ruins to be seen on the northwestern side, belong to the old palace, while the remainder of the ruins belong to the new palace.

Continuing our tour and at a distance of 11 kilometers southwest of Aghios Nikolaos lies the picturesque village of Kritsa, built amphitheatrically on a hill. It is renowned for the quality of its handwoven articles.

Three kilometers to the north of Kritsa at Kontaratos, lies the ruins of the ancient Doric city of Lato Hetera. It flourished between the 7th and the 3rd centuries BC and was protected by two acropolis, between which it lay. The archaeological site was excavated by the French School of Archaeology, and includes an agora, a number of public buildings and several houses.

From there we drive north to the capital of Lasithi prefecture, Aghios Nikolaos. It is a modern town built on the northwestern point of the Mirabello bay. Aghios Nikolaos is also built on the site of the ancient town of Lato towards Kamara, which was a seaport of Lato Hetera (the Other Lato). It flourished during the 3rd century BC. The “trademark” of Aghios Nikolaos is the Voulismeni Lake in its middle, which is linked to the sea by a canal - offers an interesting walk.

As we continue on the coastal road towards the north, we come to Elounda, 10.5 kilometers from Aghios Nikolaos. This is one of the most developed holiday resorts in Greece. Further north, opposite the northernmost point of the Spinalonga peninsula and its fortified islet, lies the fishing village of Plaka. The rocky islet of Spinalonga or Kalydon originally fortified by the Venetians in 1579 by building a castle with 40 cannons and thus transforming it to a lethal stronghold for centuries. Later it became notorious as it was the exile center for lepers from 1903 until 1957.

 

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5. Lasithi plateau

Driving southeast the road leads to Potamies. Near the village is an old monastery of Panaghia Gouverniotissa, dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin and in which can been seen frescoes of the 14th century.
Continuing and near the neighborhoods of Ano and Kato Kera and in a superb setting with a beautiful view is the monastery of Panaghia Kardiotissa or Kera (Lady), dedicated to the Birthday of the Holy Virgin. In the monastery is kept an icon of the “Virgin Enchained”, believed to be miraculous.
We continue to the south passing through the village Pikiano, the road forks out, to the right and to the left, encircling the Lasithi plateau.
The view from the high up on the road is magnificent. The picturesque windmills work regulary to water the fertile plain which covers as area of approximately 2500 hectare. During the period of Venetian rule and later under the Turkish occupation, the region was at the forefront of the resistance movement, with various uprisings starting from it.
It was also a place of refuge for those who were being hunted by the occupiers. As we continue our circle and pass through the villages of Kato Metochi, Aghios Charalambos, Plati, we come to Psychro, situated at an altitude of 840m. From here a road of one kilometer in length leads to a tourist pavilion and parking lot. If we take a footpath for about an other kilometer, we arrive at the entrance of the Dicte Cave, at an altitude of 1025 m. above sea level. Many mythological tales are associated with this dark, mysterious cave. From the archaeological finds, it has been established that this was a place of eoship from Middle Minoan to Archaic times. An altar was discovered, tables for libation, numerous offerings, figures, weapons, double axes, clay pots, rings, seals, precious stones etc.
From Psychro the road leads east, towards Kaminaki, Aghios Georgios and the Kroustalliena monastery which is built on the eastern side of the plateau, on an imposing wooded hill. It is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin. The monastery, as is the case with others in Crete, played an important role, during the Turkish occupation, as a center of the revolutionary committee and as a school for the Greek children of the region.
In the last part we meet the village of Tzermiado which is the largest village of the plateau. In excavated sites near the village were found Neolithic graves and Minoan structures. In particular, on the peak of Karfi, to the north of the village, a Minoan settlement was uncovered. Among its findings was the statue of a goddess, about a meter height, which is now in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. We continue towards Lagou and Pikiano, from where we return by the same road in a northerly direction.

 

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6. Myrtia - Archanes

An excursion through a part of the country side of Crete. Our first stop is at the village of Myrtia. Here on the village square, in a recently restored house owned by the Kazantzakis and Anemogiannis families, is housed the Nikos Kazantzakis Museum, where one can see personal objects and manuscripts belonging to the writer, all the editions of his work, stage scenery and costumes from performances of representative plays and an informative audio-visual program.

Continuing our tour we are heading to the lovely little town of Archanes. It is situated in a fertile and well irrigated region, amid luxuriant vegetation and many vineyards. The town is reputed for its excellent wine and its raisins. This is where the ancient town of Acharna was situated.
Ancient Archana was an important Minoan town, which flourished between 2500 and 1400 BC.

Over the past few years, the Municipality of Archanes has made great efforts to promote the area. Archanes won the prize in the category “Holistic and fruitful high quality development” and overall second prize in the competition for the “European Prize for Village Upgrade”, in which many Europeans countries took part. Archanes attracts the visitors by offering something different: authenticity, cleanliness, respect for the environment and tradition. Strolling around Archanes is well worthy.

 

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• The entire above excursions can also transformed according to your special interests.

• Any other possible excursion, not mentioned above can be scheduled.

• Visiting the majority of the Cretan towns could be also interesting under the nightlight.

Yiannis Saridakis
Ethnikis Antistaseos 176 - Heraklion - 71306 - Crete - Greece
Mobile phone : +30 6945 991271 - Tel./Fax : +30 2810 - 342533
E-Mail1: ysaridaki@cretan-taxi.gr - E-Mail2 : ysaridaki@hotmail.com

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